When buying a suit, the most important aspect to focus on, is getting the right fit. One of the best options is to get an off-the-rack suit and then have a tailor make adjustments, to bring the right fit. But it’s also important for you to understand what a “right” fit is.
The suit should be part of your natural stance — when you sit, stand, and walk; you should be comfortable and look elegant.
So here’s what you need to know to get the perfect suit:
1 – JACKET COLLAR
If the collar is kept loose, it will appear flopping behind the neck, and if it’s kept tight, it will create a fold. Both situations can mess up your suit’s appearance. The jacket collar must neatly rest on your inner shirt collar. Improper collar fitting means the neck size is not right.
2 – JACKET SHOULDER
In a proper fit, the shoulders rest flat. The seam on the top part and the bone under it must be of the same length. The shoulder must meet the sleeve right where your shoulder meets your arm.
3 – JACKET SLEEVE LENGTH
One simple rule when it comes to sleeve: below the jacket cuff, half-an-inch of the inner shirt cuff must be visible. Jacket sleeve should not be long enough to fully cover shirt cuff, and also not short enough to show the stitch where the shirt cuff joins with the shirt sleeve. A small band of shirt cuff has to be visible.
4 – JACKET CLOSURE
Always check how the jacket looks after your button it. Whether it’s a one-button jacket or a three-button one, the two sides must meet neatly without making the lapels appear as they are loosely hanging down. When buttoned, the jacket must not look too loose or too tight.
5 – TROUSER SEAT
The trouser seat area must be a smooth drape over your buttocks. Here again, proper measure matters. Neither too tight, nor too loose.
6 – TROUSER BREAK
The trouser break should be gently touching your shoes. One small, horizontal crease is considered ideal. Nothing more, nothing less. The trouser break and the shoes must have a gentle touch.
Before buying, try multiple suits. Stand relaxed and then pose in front of a mirror. Pick the one that comes close to the required fit.
If working with a tailor, spend enough time to provide proper measurements. Specify what exactly you’re looking for. Mention all the areas that need custom adjusting. Also, you should be able to comfortably sit and move around. No matter how expensive or rich the suit’s cloth material is, if the fit is not right, it won’t serve its purpose, which is to make you appear elegant. You own the suit and that’s what it needs to show